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Rank: Woods Warrior!
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Joined: 8/18/2009
Posts: 151
Location: Pittsburgh
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just got back from taking my diff cover off to count teeth to make sure of gearing and found the whine may have been the oil.. it was almost all soupy mudd.. I guess the front seal is shot??? dont know and dont care atm. going to get replaced one way or the other.
89 XJ :
4.5 Rusty's front springs, bastard rear springs, rusty's shocks, WJ booster upgrade, custom Q-disco's , custom Trac-Bar, stock otherwise
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03 Toyota Tacoma :
Sliders, skids, E-Locker, and custom dents
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Rank: Woods Warrior!
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Joined: 10/1/2009
Posts: 149
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
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If you can hold on for a bit, I'm going to be selling my 30/44 combo out of my xj, it has 3.55 gears, alloys and an aussie in the rear 44, 30 is a hp30 but otherwise stock
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Rank: Administration
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Joined: 3/19/2008
Posts: 1,260
Location: Steubenville, OH
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The 44 in back would be a good upgrade...
Check gear ratios to see if his 44 matches your
current ratio.
If Pat has 3.54s and your 44 has 3.54s it would be a direct
bolt-in swap.
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Rank: Administration
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Joined: 3/19/2008
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Location: Steubenville, OH
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whttaco wrote:just got back from taking my diff cover off to count teeth to make sure of gearing and found the whine may have been the oil.. it was almost all soupy mudd.. I guess the front seal is shot??? dont know and dont care atm. going to get replaced one way or the other. Mud usually doesn't come in through the pinion seal, I'm assuming that's what you're calling "front seal"? It's sealed up pretty good. Muddy water usually comes in through the outside through the axle tubes, and and makes your diff fluid murky over time. Sand & water isn't the best lubricant. I change mine every spring before the season, synthetic lube is best (unless you have a limited slip, then synthetic isn't good to use)... Then again half way through the summer, in July or so. Royal Purple is a really good gear lube to run, Synthetic is $$ but worth it. I change all my fluids about twice a year, I usually only put 1000-1200 miles on a year. Hopefully this year I'll wheel more since the club is boomin'! If you do a ride with alot of DEEP mud/water holes that are tire-deep, it's probably a good idea to change diff fluid after that. Diff bearings aren't cheap & are hard to change for the average dude... So it's best to keep them clean so they'll last. Transfer Case fluid keep fresh too, it takes tranny fluid, I'm a huge supporter of Lucas products especially in old high milage vehicles. I run Lucas Tranny Additive in my 231 at all times.
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Rank: Woods Warrior!
Groups: Member
Joined: 8/18/2009
Posts: 151
Location: Pittsburgh
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just got back from JY down the street. finally found a d44. cant get in to check the ratio. Half the axle and diff where under ice/frozen mud. when we lifted the jeep to get a better look the ice came with it..  but I have everything disconnected and ready to pull.. and as a bonus the sport had a metal gas tank skid.. mine for 10$ and axle for 100.. hopefully the axle is 3.55's like mine. it was 4.0l with auto so it should. the standards came with 3.07 and the 2.8's came with 410s and 456s. he has 2 -2.8's i am tempted to upgrade to 4.56's but that is next winters project unless I break em sooner. As a general rule - the axle ratios are as follows: 4.0L - Manual Transmission - 3.07 4.0L - Auto Transmission - 3.55 2.5L - Manual Transmission - 4.11 2.5L - Auto Transmission - 4.56 BUT! towing packages and other un-explained variations came with different weird gearing options - so be sure to check! copied from: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=101249I am thinking since its been sitting in mud that I should rebuild it before I put it in.. a kit costs 130 for bearing and seals. BUT if I do will I have to reset backlash and preloads? or can I get away with changin bearing and seals without disturbing the gears?
89 XJ : 4.5 Rusty's front springs, bastard rear springs, rusty's shocks, WJ booster upgrade, custom Q-disco's , custom Trac-Bar, stock otherwise ''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' 03 Toyota Tacoma : Sliders, skids, E-Locker, and custom dents
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Rank: Administration
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Joined: 3/19/2008
Posts: 1,260
Location: Steubenville, OH
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What vehicle is that info for? Cherokee?
You found a Cherokee with a Dana 44 rear axle sitting in the junk yard? Wow, that's a find... they're very rare!
They sell for $600 normally. Spin the pinion with your hand.... work it a little, if it spins smooth I would say the gears are ok.
Those gears last a long time.... don't replace them UNLESS You're putting new gears in it, it's not necessary.
I would have the spider gears welded... so you don't have to buy a locker.
Take the axle somewhere and have it welded.... then you can clean it up
really good and put some fresh Synthetic fluid in it, and you'll be good to go.
It's also a good thing to Weld the tubes in place, so they dont' spin.
To change bearings and seals inside the diff... you must pull everything out
and Start from scratch. This would be THE BEST TIME to get 4.56 gears
since half the battle is paying to have the gears set up by a professional.
If you're not changing gears now, i wouldn't worry about changing the bearings or seals just yet.
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Rank: Woods Warrior!
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Joined: 8/18/2009
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Location: Pittsburgh
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well, got her home. the brakes and hardware are all going to need replaced. I am pretty sure I can just swap all the cylinders and hardware over from the D35, just need 1 drum and pads. it spins freely. the ratio tag is still intact. 3.54 but I have to open it up now anyways to count the teeth... I came up with 3.55 on mine... are they the same or not?
And the spring mounts look shorter that the D35's, I recall reading somewhere that short is bad? going to get a measurement on them tomorrow and dig into the diff, after I plow the work shop that is.
89 XJ :
4.5 Rusty's front springs, bastard rear springs, rusty's shocks, WJ booster upgrade, custom Q-disco's , custom Trac-Bar, stock otherwise
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03 Toyota Tacoma :
Sliders, skids, E-Locker, and custom dents
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Rank: Rock Crawler!
Groups: Member
Joined: 11/19/2008
Posts: 619
Location: WELLSVILLE IS THE SHIT
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if they're that close numerically it will be the same.. alot of the times front and rears will be a few tenths off even from the factory. your going to have a full custom rig by spring time... keep up the good progress
Admin wrote:Booger welds & bed rails.
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Rank: Woods Warrior!
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Joined: 8/18/2009
Posts: 151
Location: Pittsburgh
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Bronc III wrote:if they're that close numerically it will be the same..
alot of the times front and rears will be a few tenths off even from the factory.
your going to have a full custom rig by spring time... keep up the good progress Thanks, was planning on instal today. but cleaning up the shop is going to take more time than I thought  have to move the Toyota to get plow out...  Here is pic of spring perch, should I weld on the longer anti wrap perch's?  Thanks for all the info and help....
89 XJ : 4.5 Rusty's front springs, bastard rear springs, rusty's shocks, WJ booster upgrade, custom Q-disco's , custom Trac-Bar, stock otherwise ''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' 03 Toyota Tacoma : Sliders, skids, E-Locker, and custom dents
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Rank: Rock Crawler!
Groups: Member
Joined: 11/19/2008
Posts: 619
Location: WELLSVILLE IS THE SHIT
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I think i would just make a anti-wrap Bar and be done with it. anti wrap perches are good for mild wheeling, if your going to wheel hard enough to up grade axles your way past longer perches.
Admin wrote:Booger welds & bed rails.
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Rank: Trail Master!
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Joined: 12/5/2008
Posts: 329
Location: chester,wv.
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pat, when you buy that new drum try new shoes, they work better back there than pads. lol (just digging at ya). finding that axle was a battle, now get it together so we can hit the trails and get sum!
THIS IS GONNA HURT!!!!!
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