I was at the Salvage yard today(always looking to see if I can find anything useful) and noticed they had smashing equipment brought in to clear back yard. 2 comanche's gone, one i wanted to check the gearing, was v6 auto. too late now.. so I asked owner how many he smashing? until tax money is covered.. lol, so If I want anything on the back yard I need to take it off now to save for me when I get $$ to pay. I planned on upgrading diff's and axles in the future.. D44 front and 8.8 rear. so, I went looking at every truck back there. found a wagoneer with 44's front and back. but front one is pass side(I need drv side) found 3 8.8's 1 with disks, 2 with drums, found about 5 d30's, 2 disconect type, I have non disco, and 5 d35's.
I can get any diff for 100$ So, before I start to tear rearends outta vehicles I need to know which way to go.

1) upgrade rear and front hopeing they will be strong enough and not break.
2) stick with stock because there are plenty cheap replacement parts

I like the 33's and dont think I will be going bigger any time soon. maybe different style but sticking to 33's. I do want lockers in future. will I need to upgrade then or just keep spare axles and joints? which is cheaper in the long run?
I am too new at wheeling to even pretend to know whats going to break more. thanks for any helpful info.

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89 XJ :
4.5 Rusty's front springs, bastard rear springs, rusty's shocks, WJ booster upgrade, custom Q-disco's , custom Trac-Bar, stock otherwise
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03 Toyota Tacoma :
Sliders, skids, E-Locker, and custom dents

It costs $2,000-3,000 to put different axles under a Cherokee.

Just get an 8.8 from a late 90s Explorer and replace the Dana 35.

if you want something thats pretty straight forward, in my opinion, forget the 8.25. Look at a d44 from an xj, although a little hard to find, its defintely your best bet. Its what I have in my xj now, if you want some pics, I can grab some for you.

the waggy 44 is going to be to wide, IIRC which is possible I don't the width is considerably wider than the xj d44. If you're doing waggy axles you need both front and rear.

**EDIT**

oh and stay away from the ranger 8.8's, they were only 29 spline and not much better than your average d35. You specifically need a late model explorer rear, doesn't necessarily need disc brakes because you can convert it but disc brakes are a tell tale sign that you're getting the right axle

A D35 is not Even close to a 29 spline 8.8.The 31 spline 8.8 is the most desireable.But the 29 spline is still much much better than D35.Where are you getting your info?

I'm not a fan of the 29 spline 8.8's as I've blown a few of them up. granted these were in my race cars but it didn't take much to kill them

and all the abuse my d35's have taken in the past, I should be put in jail for. I'm no expert by any means but I know I don't like those 29 splines

i am running the explorer 8.8 in my blazer. the offset is minimal. i have not had a problem with my driveshaft at all. Bill is right. i do drag the diff more than i would like, but with wheel placement its not a huge problem. If your going to use the flange on the explorer8.8 make sure you get the adapter off the driveshaft. I have also heard that the 8.8 in the crownvics had a standard yolk that can be used, but not im not sure because i never used one. For the install all you really need is new spring perches wich are around 25 bux and new ubolts. You can use the stock spring plate from the explorer. Only thing im not sure on the cherokee is the brakes.



The waggy 44 comes in two versions. the wide track with a wms to wms of 67'' which is fullwidth and also the standard one which is 64" wms to wms.

me and mike went up the u pull it about a month ago they had at least 25 second gen explorers (disk brake 8.8) didnt get to ask how much. a few we're missing the axle tags but the is an axle code on the sticker in the door.
43 Open 3200 3.08
41 Open 3200 3.27
42 Open 4.10
46 Open 3.73
45 Open 3200 3.55
D4 Limited Slip 3200 3.73
D2 Limited Slip 4.10
L73 Limited Slip 3.73

YOU PULL IT - (West Alexander, PA):
Located approx. 15 miles EAST of Wheeling just off 70 near the WV-PA border.
Phone: (724) 484-2020

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Listen, you fuckers, you screwheads. Here is a man who would not take it anymore. A man who stood up against the scum, the cunts, the dogs, the filth, the shit. Here is a man who stood up.

Full size Waggy axles quite often have awful gearing. Like 2.72...

If you run a Ford 8.8, you might want to get 1 (one) 1.5" wheel spacer, to bring the axle to stock XJ length, or at least close to it, and center the diff. IIRC you want one from a 95 or newer Explorer for the better shafts, and bonus disc brakes. When going disc brake rear you also need to pull the proportioning valve, or one off a rear disc Grand Cherokee. May need some adapters to make either work, but disc brakes need more pressure than drums. I believe you will also need to move the spring perches.

For the direct bolt ins from various year XJs:

D35 is junk.
27 spline 8.25" is just as junk.
29 spline 8.25" is not as good as a D44, but more than good enough for 33s
D44 is the holy grail. If you can find one for a good price, get it!

Grand Cherokee disc brakes should be a straight bolt on for the 35 and 44, and only need the center hole opened up a bit (from 2.75" to 3", or 1/8" the whole way around) to fit on an 8.25". Bolt holes line up perfectly. Again, if moving to disc you need a proportioning valve off a vehicle with rear discs.

Don't know what engine/transmission you run, but all of these are often to be found with 4.10 gears.

Isuzu Rodeo also came with a D44 rear, but 6 lug axles.

You don't need expensive spacers with an 8.8, you can run 1/4" plate spacers that cost $15
and it'll be fine.

If you can find an 8.8 with gears that match your front,
you need to buy:
- new brakes $125
- a flage yoke adapter $50
- weld on anti wrap spring perches $30
- .25" plate spacers $15

Have somebody weld the spider gears & you're all set.
Done.

A Super 35 kit costs like $800,
it's a huge waste of money when you can get
an 8.8 from U Pull It for $75.

GO 60'S OR GO HOME :)

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Stock rear 60s blow... Unless you spend $800 to make them 35 spline.
$150 ready to go for a FF 14 baby, that's a no brainer too!

ok, here I am again. I have found a D44 (wrong gearing) for 200$. If I get this it will cost me about 1000 to get it in my jeep. If I have to buy gears to match mine, I am going up front and back to 4:56's, will need new carriers, then will have to pay shop to intall since I have never done one. and of course if your going to regear you have to(should) rebuild (bearings and seals) it. and Hope I dont break any axles because they hard to get (used)
BUT
I have noticed that there are a LOT of 8.25 out there for cheap. and I can get one with same gearing I have now so it will be a bolt on and go deal.
so, should I just get the 8.25 knowing that I will have easier time getting replacement parts. and save the $$$ for bling bling?
seriously, I want to get tubing to make sliders and tc skid and purchase a front bumper. will be able to if I get the 8.25.
my 35 is starting to whine loud enough that I cant hear radio at cruising speeds....

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89 XJ :
4.5 Rusty's front springs, bastard rear springs, rusty's shocks, WJ booster upgrade, custom Q-disco's , custom Trac-Bar, stock otherwise
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03 Toyota Tacoma :
Sliders, skids, E-Locker, and custom dents